Elevated city guides: Buenos Aires
February 12, 2022, my life changed. After years of dreaming and months of planning, my boyfriend and I boarded our flight to Buenos Aires with no return ticket. When we first decided to embark on our big adventure in South America, we had no idea we would end up spending 10 of the 12 months we were gone in Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires. The bustling metropolis of 15 million people and thick Castellano accent intimidated us at first. But the city known as ‘the Paris of South America’ soon captured our hearts and became home.
And don’t let the cost of the flight deter you - once you arrive you won’t believe how cheap it is to enjoy everything this city has to offer. Unfortunately for the local economy, Argentina as a whole has struggled with high inflation for years, but as an American tourist your dollar will go very far.
When to visit:
Anytime of year except June-August (winter - it gets surprisingly cold!).
Spring (October-November) and Fall (February-April) are my favorite and the weather is amazing. If you go in late October you will see the famous Jacaranda trees in bloom, covering the city in bright purple.
Where to stay:
Palermo is Buenos Aires’ largest barrio and also one of its most walkable, with tree-lined streets dotted by long, narrow single-story houses built in the late 19th century and now highly coveted for renovation. Palermo is really a neighborhood of neighborhoods. Each sub-neighborhood has its own nickname and a different feel: Palermo Chico, Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, Alto Palermo, Plaza Italia, and Las Cañitas. We preferred Palermo Hollywood and here are our top recommended hotels:
CasaSur
Home Hotel
Ilum Experience Home
Things to do:
1.There are two great ways to see all the sites the city has to offer: Bike Tours or the Hop on Hop Off Bus.
For bike tours, book on Trip Advisor and search: “Biker Street Buenos Aires Bike Tours.”
For the Hop On Hop Off bus, you will see big yellow buses all around the city. You can scan the QR code on the side of the bus or purchase tickets online at www.buenosairesbus.com.
2. Go see a tango show (make sure to book in advance) Cafe de Angelitos or Rojo Tango Show
3. Take the ferry to Colonia, Uruguay for a fun day trip.
4. Grab a famous choripan sandwich at the San Telmo market before wandering the cobblestone streets shopping for antiques and trinkets.
5. Go to a soccer (futbol) game at one of the two local stadiums. Cheer on La Boca or River Plate.
6. Visit one of the countless museums - my favorite is MALBA.
7. Buy tickets to the orchestra at Teatro Colon.
8. Take a walk around Parque Tres de Febrero or rent a paddle boat and get out on the lake.
9. Go see a polo match at the Hipodromo de Palermo
Where to drink:
BA is the city that never sleeps. You can choose any night of the week at any hour and there will be nightlife. Whether it’s a brewery on the polo field, a NYC Subway themed speakeasy or an outdoor jungle themed bar - there’s a place for you.
Franks
Uptown
Mauer
La Fuerza
Club Lucero
Imperial
Strange Brewing
Festival
Avant Garden
Victoria Brown
Where to eat:
Argentina is internationally renowned for it’s quality of steak. S at least ONE dinner you go to has to be a steakhouse or parilla. The most famous by far is Don Julio (you will need a reservation months in advance) and while it is good, we found there were other more hidden gems we liked just as much, if not better.
La Carniceria, La Cabrera, Hierro, Corte Commedor
Where to have coffee or work:
Oli Cafe: Try any of their amazing pastries, but especially the medialuna. There will usually be a line out front to get a table but it’s worth the wait.
Vive Cafe: a funky Colombian cafe with a great cup of coffee. Try the yogurt and granola.
Cuervo: This is the best cup of coffee in Buenos Aires. Hands down.
Moshu Treehouse: designed by local architects, this is a unique space to have a cup of coffee or pastry.
Surry Hills: cute coffee shop with pressed juices and a delicious breakfast sandwich
If you go, give this city a big beso for me!
Happy travels,
Elise
